Before that chilly day in January, I had never seen pink snow. And yet, while ATVing at the break of dawn outside of Reykjavik, there it was. The rising sun cast a glow upon perfect white blankets of it. The frosty wind whipped my cheeks as I accelerated to keep up with Kaktus, my Icelandic tour guide (yes, that was actually his name.) When we retired around noon, my face matched the snow, flushed, kissed by Iceland’s chill.
This photo of my face smushed together with a helmet and parka is one of my favorite of all time. You can see more of my travel pics on my Driftygal blog.
I’ve been to Iceland five times, hitchhiking around the Ring Road in 2014, and subsequently returning to the cold island four times after that. What can I say? Between having parents who live in Upstate New York and growing up in South Jersey, I’ve become accustomed to two things: snow and the sea. Iceland is my happy place, a true heaven on Earth, a place where I feel at home. It isn’t just the open green pastures, the fresh, clean water, and the distinct crispness in the air as soon as you leave the airport. It’s the culture and the people. As I’ve continued to travel over the years, I’ve kept a soft spot for Scandinavian countries, which I can’t wait to explore at a greater scale.
One of my favorite parts of winter is the overwhelming warmth when you finally go inside. There’s nothing greater than shedding an oversized winter coat, and sitting down at a table for a hearty bowl of soup and a crusty piece of bread.
Which leads me to this post. As I continue through my Food Studies and Library Science dual master's, (at the ripe young age of 36), I’m finding ways to combine my love for food, stories, and travel. When it comes to the food stories of Scandinavia, so many are rooted in folklore, religion, and survival. From dried fish to rich cheeses to fermented goods, in these countries, food is centered around heartiness and strength. For this article, I’m starting with a discussion about food and drink native to Finland, the next Scandinavian country I plan on visiting.
Puruveden Muikku (Stockfish)
This past February, I went fishing in Tokyo Bay and caught over 20 mackerel. Then, my guide, Moto, translator Mayou, and I headed to a local restaurant with a cooler of the day’s catch. There, the chef prepared the mackerel in eight different ways, including fried, making the bones crunchy, and a delight to eat. It was my first time eating fish whole, but it won’t be my last - it was absolutely amazing.
In Finland (and many other Scandinavian countries), fish is a significant part of the diet and economy. Stockfish, or fish that is dried and air dried, specifically. While a bit chewy, stockfish is a durable snack that can last for years. Countries all around the world, such as Kenya, still have stockfish as a part of their food culture.
The importance of fish dates back to the Middle Ages, where “fines to the Church could be paid in stockfish,” and it was permitted to eat during Lent. Additionally, stockfish is incredibly nutritional, and high in protein and vitamin C. As such, it was ideal for fishermen, soldiers, and anyone required to travel long distances through arduous conditions. While I can’t personally vouch for that, I’ve had it in Iceland a few times (try it with butter) and thought it was pretty good. (Then again, I’m Ukrainian/Irish and was basically raised on potatoes and milk.)
Lonkero (Long Drink)
In 1952, the Olympic Summer Games were held in Finland. With the influx of tourists and locals attending the games, the government and beverage company Hartwell engineered the creation of an original canned drink that could be served in mass quantities. Based on the highball (long glass), the result was “The Long Drink,” an alcoholic beverage with a gin base (using Finnish juniper berries) and grapefruit soda.
The rights to the beverage were owned by the Finnish government until 1995 when Finland joined the EU. After, a few beverage companies recreated the drink, which was served in Finland on tap or in cans. Symbolically, it would represent Finland as it began to be distributed abroad.
American entrepreneur Evan Burns, for example, was inspired to bring The Long Drink to America after trying it while visiting Finland. Today, The Long Drink is produced in Upstate New York (my parents live in Rochester, so I appreciate this), and is sold all over the country.
I found out at the beginning of this year that I can’t consume alcohol for medical reasons, so until there’s a nonalcoholic version, I won’t be able to try it. Thankfully, my best friend Amber agreed to be my proxy and did a taste test on my behalf (see video below or click here.)
From the perspective of a Food Studies student (sorry), the journey of The Long Drink is fascinating and goes beyond the marketing and distribution of a trendy cocktail. The identity of a country is deeply rooted in what is grown, cooked, and consumed. For Finland, a country commonly grouped with the rest of Scandinavia, the spread of their unique drink is a way to differentiate and represent themselves on the global stage.
Fun fact for NYU students: NYU Tisch alum and future Oscar winner Miles Teller is an investor in The Long Drink! What is UP my fellow Phillies fannnn! (We’re both from Philly/South Jersey area.)
Crayfish
I consider myself to be a Northerner and Southerner, as I was raised in Philadelphia, South Jersey, and Upstate New York, then spent the majority of my adulthood in North Carolina. So when I hear crayfish, my mind immediately goes to Southern crawfish boils. I’m all too familiar with dishes intended to draw a crowd and foster community, so I was pleased to find that Finland has a rich history with crayfish boils.
Similar to fish local to Finland, throughout history, crayfish have been essential to the Finnish economy. While temporarily disrupted by an epidemic in the 1980s where the population was infected, crayfish have enabled local fishermen to support their families and make a good wage. Today, crayfish are even stimulating the tourism industry, with foreigners eager to come and experience crayfish boils for themselves.
Crayfish are accompanied by crispy bread, dill butter, and alcohol (often shots of Koskenkorva.)
Held primarily during the summer and early fall months, crayfish boils are a great opportunity to spend time with family and friends.
Leipäjuusto (Squeaky Cheese)
Squeaky cheese, such as halloumi, has always been one of my favorite parts of visiting Europe. In the States, halloumi tends to be expensive, while in places like the UK, it’s much more popular, and often found on salads, burgers, and sandwiches. It’s no surprise that Finland has its own version of “squeaky cheese” (it literally squeaks when you chew it), commonly made from cow or reindeer milk.
Similarly to stockfish, “squeaky cheese,” which is also called bread cheese, leipäjuusto has a long shelf life. Now, I’ve done a considerable amount of research on cheese (because I love cheese, except American, the devil’s candy), and I always find somewhat conflicting information about it. The French have about 1600 types of cheeses, I believe, and if I’m remembering correctly, cheese was a part of the cuisine of the upper crust (pun intended.) However, in other readings, I’ve read that cheese was an important part of the lower-class diet, as it was one of the only sources of protein they had access to. This resulted in me finding an old Medieval price chart ala UC Davis, and having to convert shillings into pence into dollars.
According to this, 80lb of cheese (yes, you read that correctly), cost three shillings, and four pence in the Late 13th Century.
Bear with me, but if:
1 shilling = 12 pence (d)
Then:
3 shilling = 36 pence (d)
80 lb of cheese = 40 pence
This website converts that to about 50 cents USD. Based on that, my conclusion is basically this: Scandinavian countries were prone to have a lot of long-lasting dishes in their diet. Food wouldn’t be wasted as much, as it could be stored longer, and could also survive those bitter, cold winters. Additionally, if you subscribe to the Octavio Paz line of thinking, countries that prioritized Puritan values over passion believed food was fuel, and not for enjoyment. Nutritious and cheap ingredients took priority.
Mykyrokka (Soup)
Anthony Bourdain loved blood. While he didn’t consume any mykyrokka or blood-based dishes during his visit to Finland, he did do a blood cleanse (it’s exactly what it sounds like.) For the adventurous, mykyrokka is a soup with blood dumplings, (rye flour and animal blood), as well as meat and potatoes. The idea of a “blood soup” may be stomach-turning for some, however, it’s another example of a highly nutritious ingredient with a ton of protein and iron.
There’s also the symbolism of consuming blood. Any good Catholic can make the connection between blood (the Eucharist) with religion. Depending on your religion, the morality of eating blood varies, but seeing that it’s a part of a traditional Finnish dish, I assume it’s OK there.
Poronkaristys (Sauteed Reindeer)
One time in Iceland, I accidentally ate whale. A man who spoke little English offered it to me, and believing it to be fresh tuna, I gave it a try. My travel companion took a photo, and later in a bar, a local confirmed that it was indeed whale meat. I felt horrible, but at a certain point as a traveler, the occasional strange meat is inevitable. Whether it’s unknowingly dining on dog fried rice in Burma ala Lucy Long or debating the ethics of trying shark meat in Japan, there are always going to be elements of other food cultures that make you feel uncomfortable. (Personally, I can’t imagine anything worse than being told I just tried dog, especially when you read the context of that Lucy Long essay.)
While reindeer isn’t as exotic as trying something like horse or alligator, it has a lot in common with these widely consumed meats. Reindeer are native to Scandinavian countries like Finland, and throughout history, have served an important symbolic, economic, and dietary purpose. Reindeer is a vital ingredient in the national dish of Finland, called Poronkäristys, which includes mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam.
Finnish Pancakes
One doesn’t often contemplate the history of their breakfast, but even different varieties of pancakes have their unique origins. Finnish pancakes, for example, didn’t even come from Finland. Instead, they came from Finnish immigrants who had relocated to Canada, and created due to the need for food that could be prepared quickly in bush camps and paper mills. Consider the basic and affordable ingredients needed to make pancakes - flour, milk, and eggs, and it’s easy to see why this was an essential dish for immigrants. Similar to crepes, Finnish pancakes are flat, thin, and served with powdered sugar, butter, and fruit.
Onward to Finland!
When I actually visit Finland in the summer, I’ll return to this post and make updates. These are just a few of many delicious dishes to try (though again, I can’t try the Long Drink.)
Melissa Roshko Randall is a writer with a degree in Film and Media Arts from Temple
University. Currently pursuing a dual MA degree in Food Studies and Library Science at NYU
and Long Island University, Melissa is also the Copywriter and Content Strategist for the New York Film Academy and serves as Sr. Editor for Bite The Pub, focusing on food culture. Recognized as a Gardiner Foundation Fellow and Reilley Professional Achievement
Scholarship Recipient, Melissa is currently a Junior Fellow at the Carl Safina Center. She splits her time between Philadelphia, New York City, and Wilmington, NC. In her spare time, she travels, watches movies, goes to Phillies games, and spends time with her dog, Morrie, and cat, Gus.
Do you have any recommendations for Finnish food? Drop her a line @driftygal on X or @driftyland on Instagram!
Additional Article Sources: