Finding the darker truth behind large-scale commercial fishing.
Words by Emily Cohen and Illustration by Mikaela Perry
I was raised in a pescatarian household. When kids at school mockingly asked me “don’t fish have feelings too?” I always had difficulty coming up with an answer. I found myself turning the questions around and re-emphasizing the farming industry’s inhumane treatment of livestock. Whenever I did this, I always knew that was not a justifiable answer. Deep down I truthfully knew that I was very disconnected from the ocean.
As I have grown up, and become more engaged within the food space, I’ve come to realize that I am no less innocent consuming fish than commercial meat eaters. The truth is, many of us don’t know much about the ocean, let alone have access to it. To many, the ocean seems limitless and therefore the fish stocks seem as though they’ll be endless. I don’t think I’m alone when picturing a fisherman, I still see an older man of a stout figure, adorned in a bright yellow raincoat, rain boots, and a long beard. However, after listening to the “Captives at Sea and the Fish We Eat” episode of Tom Colicchio’s Citizen Chef podcast, my fantastical perception of fishers and more importantly, my naïve belief that eating fish is less destructive than eating conventional meat were intensely challenged. In this episode, host Tom Colicchio and investigative reporter, Ian Urbina, discuss the crimes and slavery within the fishing industry that few of us are privy to. Ultimately, This conversation highlights the realistic sense of removal the consumer has from those who work in the fishing industry and the great disconnect from the ocean and our plate.
Urbina almost immediately offsets my stereotypical image of a fisherman when recalling the story of a specific captive, Lang-Long. Upon arrival to the ship, Lang-Long was surrounded by terrifying, foreign men who tricked him on to this ship. No older than in his teens, Lang-Long was driven away from shore and quickly forced to work in life-threatening conditions, surrounded by men who spoke a different language. Lang-Long suffers from severe seasickness and continues to mess up on the tasks demanded by him. After enduring these hardships, he attempts to escape, but ultimately fails at doing so. As punishment, he is permanently shackled by the neck to the boat. It was not until a long period of time that a rookie on a passing vessel noticed Lang-Long and reported his sightings to authorities. Upon hearing about his story, funds are raised to buy Lang-Long’s freedom - all $700 worth.
Like me, listeners are likely to question how this is possible. Urbina points out that “laws are only as good as enforcements… the further you get away from shore, the less enforcement” there is. Urbina further explains that these workers are often “not a day older than 13,” and they are likely undocumented. They are quite literally shipped off the horizon and have no chance of escaping- unlike workers in factories who sometimes have a chance to run to police. Colicchio and Urbina’s conversation is incredibly sobering through Urbina’s primary experience of these ruthless occurrences happening deep at sea.
This podcast episode helps illuminate the idea that consumers are very disconnected from the food system and the overarching notion that consumers rely on the lives of others for the food on their plates. Consider the element of “green-washing” that occurs within the fishing industry. One of the biggest examples of this are tuna cans adorned with the term “dolphin safe.” While many cans advertise this logo, it does not take into account the other marine life, as well as human life, that is being taken advantage of. For instance, one of the biggest canned tuna fish brands is called “Chicken of the Sea.” The naming of this brand strategically removes the consumer from the actual product for it is not even marketed as fish, but rather as a land animal. It demoralizes the life that was taken and keeps the consumer blind to the industry. As consumers, it is important to be mindful, look beyond glamorous names, green-washing, and potential health benefits, and ask the uncomfortable questions to better understand our role in the food chain.
At one point, Colicchio notes, “A lot of tuna runs through my restaurant; I start to think ‘am I complicit in this somehow?’” Though not it may not be purposeful, Urbina notes that “We are all complicit. You’re not more complicit than me. We can never get outside of this but can work towards minimizing involvement.” Urbina’s urge for consumer responsibility ignites a desire to change the way we view fishing and consume seafood. His matter-of-the-fact communication style instantly connects with the audience , leaving them in an uncomfortable position that forces them to urgently contemplate their eating habits.
Additional Resources on the Fishing Industry:
“End of the Line: How Overfishing is Changing the World and What We Eat” by Charles Clover
“The Outlaw of the Ocean” by Ian Urbina, New York Times
Resources from Slow Fish North America to source sustainable fish, and continue to educate yourself on the fishing industry.
Emily is finishing up her first-year as a Food Studies student while also working as a server and for a local coconut yogurt company. With her studies, Emily hopes to help save the world! Find her @cohencooks28.
Mikaela is food studies student, and her work can be found on her instagram @mikaelaswatercolwors or on her website.
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