A New Jersey Thai restaurant provides a small return to pre-pandemic life.
Words by Alex Foster
It’s been months since I’ve been in New York City. Aside from the energy, I miss the endless variety of food this city has to offer. You can find almost anything your heart and stomach desire. New Jersey is not quite the same. While there is a lot of good food (it is the home of the diner after all), the level of choice, ease, and accessibility just doesn’t compare.
It’s also been months since I’ve had Thai food, and am really craving it. Not knowing where to go, I decided to put my faith in the Internet and Googled “best Thai food” in my area. After scouring reviews on Yelp, I choose Thai Essence and place my order online: vegetable spring rolls as an appetizer, and vegetable pad thai as the main. Mask on (#covid), I pick up my order and bring the brown paper bag back to my house with anticipation.
I open the bag and pull out a white Chinese takeout container. Inside, I find five little vegetable spring rolls along with a small plastic container of peach dipping sauce. Next, I pull out the rectangular plastic container of pad thai. The steaming hot noodles created a layer of condensation on the interior of the lid, preventing me from seeing the dish in its true glory.
I decide not to eat straight out of the to-go containers, as I usually would. This is a special occasion. Let’s be civilized and put this on a plate.
First, the spring rolls. Little, fried, golden brown parcels. I pick one up and dip it into the gooey, sticky peach sauce. It clings to the roll perfectly, and I take a bite. A satisfying crunch. The outer layer of the spring roll is slightly oily but perfectly crispy, and it pairs well with the sweet and sour tangy peach sauce. Small flakes of the wonton wrapper break off and land on my plate. Then, I’m hit with the chewy, almost doughy inner layer of the spring roll, before finally getting to the medley of vegetables in the middle. I mostly taste cabbage but also taste hints of carrot and glass noodles.
Now, onto the vegetable pad thai. A sea of orangey brown flat rice noodles flecked with red pepper flakes, specks of scrambled eggs, and little cubes of tofu. Thai Essence’s choice of vegetables includes crinkle cut zucchini, broccoli, snap peas, green beans, scallions, and bean sprouts. I recognize the fragrance and the funk from the Thai spices and herbs. I take my fork and swirl in the pile of finely chopped peanuts, then take the lime wedge and squeeze it over the top.
First bite. The chewy noodles have a sweet, salty, and funky flavor from the umami of the fish sauce. The salty bite of the eggs and the cubes of tofu enhance the chewiness, while the crunchy peanuts add a subtle nutty note, although I do wish there were more. The acidity of the lime creates balance, breaking up the oiliness and sweetness of the dish. The vegetables bring a slight hint of freshness, although they seem overcooked ever so slightly.
I’m suddenly hit with heat. It's spicier than I remember. I thought I chose level 1 spice! Isn’t that the mildest? I really do have the lowest tolerance for spice. I take sips of water to cool and cleanse my palate.
The dish is unified, perhaps a little too much so. The flavors feel a bit muddled, but nevertheless, I continue to dig in. My favorite bites are the noodles that stuck together creating an extra chewy and satisfying texture.
The pad thai vanishes from my plate, leaving a slight burning, numbing sensation in my mouth. Was this the best pad thai I’ve had? No. But it did satisfy my months-long craving.
Alex is passionate about food justice and ensuring that healthy food and healthy living are accessible to Black and Brown people.
Comments